Monday, August 18, 2014


Do you know the way to San Miguel ???


Voted one of the worlds' top 20 
travel destinations by TRAVEL & LEISURE magazine 
San Miguel is a magical weave of                                  Foreign yet familiar
                                                                                               Ancient yet modern
                                                                                               Third world yet *****



San Miguel is for LOVERS...

Lovers of Architecture



Few places in the world 
have been able to maintain their original character 
-age gracefully- 
and allow the best 
of the 21st century to blend seamlessly with the 'old ways'


 San Miguel de Allende...

two hours north of Mexico City...
6,600 feet above sea level...
has magically done that
Colorful vines tumble from roof tops

Buildings date back to the early 17th century

and old traditions are maintained
Laundry is done by hand 
in communal wash tubs



 Deliveries are made on the back of a burro


Lovers of History

Historically important ,the birthplace of Ignacio Allende
leader of the Mexican independence movement in the 

early 19th century


San Miguel was the first municipality declared independent of Spain


The 18th century home of Ignacio Allende

on the corner of the main square opposite the

parish church


LA PARROQUIA 


Unique in Mexico,

 the facade of the church was 

inspired by postcard images of european churches





DESIGN-FISHER-WEISMAN


The Neo-Gothic creation can be seen 


from almost any rooftop in town

Get a good "taste" of San Miguel
 from the rooftop terrace at La Posadita
famous for the green Pozole

San Miguel flourished from the silver trade 
for three centuries and then became a forgotten ghost town 

By the early 20th century much of the town was in ruins.

 ABANDONED 
until it was rediscovered by 
American artist,  Sterling Dickinson,  in 1938 who established
The Instituto Allende in an old hacienda
opening art classes that began attracting artists from all over the world


Lovers of  the Arts

Wall mural 
INSTITUTO ALLENDE

In the 1950s Diego Rivera and David Siquieros,
founders of  Mexican Muralism,
were regular visitors

PORTRAIT OF MATILDA
by
DIEGO RIVERA
now on display at 
The Hotel Matilda



Siquieros Mural 
Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes




Institute walls are covered in mid-century murals

Art classes are still taught at both institutes and San Miguel
continues to attract artists ,writers, and musicians 

MARY RAPP
90 years young and going strong in her studio at

The Aurora
Formerly a muslin weaving mill 
converted to
  shops , studios, art galleries and restaurants


TIMO
by
Rodrigo de La Sierra


Bi-Monthly art shows are held in the Parque Juarez
on the second and fourth Saturday of each month
Price is in PESOS
(divide by 13 and then start to bargain)


Narrow cobbled streets climb the hilly terrain


A  UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE
 since 2008
electrical, telephone and optic cable have been 
buried beneath the cobbles
and many restrictions apply to building 

Colors are strictly regulated


to maintain the colonial authenticity


Original walls must be maintained 
and incorporated into all renovations




 
Local materials are used in construction 
all done by  skilled hand labor





Stark colonial facades don't even hint at
what lies beyond their protective front walls


Lovers of Design 






Glorious homes, many available for weekly rentals
fully staffed,  to give you a real feeling for living in San Miguel



Private home tours are available weekly

THE COURTYARD AT WABI
The creation of designer Ted Wolter
WABI is the newest arrival of fine shops 

Ted's style is  
a mix of mid century modern, contemporary pieces 
made of reclaimed timbers, and scattered primitive antiques
displayed in restored surroundings 
The best of all worlds

WABI's walls stripped of plaster reveal 
straw and adobe bricks 
laid in alternating rows with local cobbles
reminiscent of stacks of handwoven rugs
at the Mercado de Artesenias

Lovers of  The Hunt 
 (aka shopping)




Handwoven rugs 
made to your design and specification
inexpensively in just a few short days



hand carved wooden kitchen tools at the market


Handmade ceramics at TRINITATE right next door to The Parrochia
Antiques

Architectural salvage on the road to Dolores Hidalgo


Transportation home is not impossible
but you will need to make arrangements
RLF@los-lopez.com
I couldn't resist- 
one for herbs  by my kitchen door
the other destined to become a powder room sink


On the road to Dolores Hidalgo

where Talaveras is handpainted on everything from urns 
to dinner plates

Design your own  
Laura Bush has sets made as wedding gifts

Highly skilled craftsmen have the capabilities to
make intricately designed furniture

The range of design options available 
in light fixtures will blow your mind

So many unique sources are tucked in 
along all the streets of the historical district
Serapes and ponchos take on a whole new aesthetic
recreated by the Coleman family , formerly of Chicago.
Fabricated by local artisans of the finest luxury textiles
displayed in  beautifully restored interiors of a
colonial era house

Serapes are the perfect weight for the temperate climate
of San Miguel

There is a rainy season in San Miguel
and when it rains it pours

Water gushes over cobbled streets like white water 

but in a flash 
it's over and done

the cobbles are spotless


everyone is back on the streets














and it's business as usual


Lovers of local color


















Lovers of FUN




Weekly celebrations and festivals 






Just plain  LOVERS

So many romantic choices of places to stay 

From B&B's  and  luxury hotels... 



         
HOTEL MATILDA
One of the singularly new and chicly modern buildings 
constructed in SMA in 2010

The Hotel
Villa Santa Monica
formerly a private hacienda  home



TO
Living the San Miguel life by renting a private residence



Tequila is the beverage of choice

It's not the tequila that makes your ears ring
 in San Miguel
it's church bells peeling at all hours
INSTITUTO de MUSICA


The oldest bull ring in Mexico and Latin America
disappears from view right in the middle of town.
Blood sport holds no appeal to me

But had to go see
Jorge Jesus Gleason
aka
"EL GLISON"
I kid you not !
The pageantry is beautiful
Bolero jacket- hot pink capes
and hot 
Inspirations

HAMISH BOWELS
Editor-at-Large
VOGUE

Rock concerts are also held in the
Plaza Del Torres
The stands fill with fans of all ages

All food groups are enhanced with fresh squeezed lime


Lovers of good wines, good food, good design




Breakfast at LAVANDA is also a feast for the eyes

 Try the Fish Tacos at lunch
Recently opened by former graphic designers
the food at Lavanda is as delicious as it is gorgeous
LAVANDA
Tucked into a narrow courtyard spilling with
greenery has the feel of old Mexico

Another unique dining experience 
MEZCALERIA
is "the new kid on the block"
The creation of a couple of young industrial designers
the interiors are stark minimalist 

Served are all kinds of Mezcal
and an assortment of Tapas dishes

A stack of vine ripened juicy tomatoes 
with fresh mozzarella
and basil in a syrup of balsamic vinegar
Absolutely fresh and SO delicious
aside from reflecting the design background
 of the designer turned chef

Always a favorite
THE RESTAURANT

Chef, Donnie Masterson brought global comfort food to San Miguel 
after learning from the best in NYC
THURSDAY NIGHT
is
BURGER NIGHT
RESERVATIONS A MUST
Mingle with the locals and you are likely to be invited
into one of the private homes.


For another taste of San Miguel 
Ginger Margaritas 
at 
La Sirena Gorda
 Know why the Sirena is GORDA ?
DO NOT MISS 
Chamorro
braised pork shank



For a light breakfast or afternoon pastry



PETIT FOUR

The creation of Paco Cardena, the talented chef 
also offers cooking classes at his home

You don't have to love to cook to love Paco's class

Your day begins with a trip to the market



Be introduced to all the very best vendors


San Miguel 
                                          a feast for all the senses

Looking for love.....

Do you know the way to San Miguel ?

Salute !

Rela








9 comments:

Suzanne said...

Dios mio!! What a fantastic blog, Sra. Rela... A deliciously delightful sensory overload! Brava y besos! Suzanne

Anonymous said...

This is simply wonderful. How do you do it ?
I have seen many write ups for SMA over the years but this is fresh and really nails it !
Linda Speer Luck

Anonymous said...

I love your blog and this one is no exception.
Dreaming of San Miguel Allende

Anonymous said...

I always get so excited when I see your journal cover page arrive in my emails. I actually have NO time for blogs- people spouting off drivel but
yours is different- always stirs up my interest . Love your images
and the way you weave in and out- I never know where you will lead me. This time you have led me to a destination I MUST go see. I am working on reservations immediately

Anonymous said...

Damn you're good !

Joanie

Anonymous said...

Nice one...

roy.m.

Anonymous said...

Absolutely fabulous presentation of SMA

Art & Leonna

Carol Romano INSH'ALA said...

Thank you, Rela, for the marvelous post on our precious town! The photos are beautiful and show so many facets of the marvelous life here.
Soon you will have the beautiful furniture pieces discovered at our store, INSH'ALA, to add to your new home here!
See you again here in San Miguel... carol romano

Alexa said...

Rela

Love this summary of San Miguel. And love that you have included shots of Tres Leones. Alexa